Fabric Structure and Design - 18208
 Periods/Week   Periods in one
3 0 0 60 100 80 20





SL Topics Periods
1. Elements of Woven Design 07
2. Construction of Elementary Weaves 06
3. Development of Weaves from Elementary Bases 14
4. Diamond and Diaper Designs 05
5. Simple Fancy Weaves 14
6. Yarn Diameter and Cover Factor 05
7. Colour and its Applications 09
  Total 60


 Topics  Content Periods
01 Elements of Woven Design 07
01.01 General principles of fabric structure and design. 01
01.02 Classification of woven fabrics.
01.03 Methods of fabric representation. 01
01.04 Use of graph paper.
01.05 Repeat of the design.
01.06 Drawing-in, denting, draft, lifting plan, design. 01
01.07 System of drafting.
01.08 Construction of drafts and lifting plans. 02
01.08.01 Methods of indicating drafts and lifting plans: By ruling lines, By design papers and By numbering.
01.08.02 Relations between design, draft and lifting plan. 02
01.08.03 Construction of drafts and lifting plan from given designs.
01.08.04 Construction of drafts from given designs and lifting plans.
01.08.05 Construction of designs from given drafts and lifting plans.
02 Construction of Elementary Weaves 06
02.01 Study of plain weaves. 02
02.02 Classification of plain weave.
02.03 Simple twill weaves and its construction. 02
02.04 Sateen and satin weaves: Regular sateens and satins, Irregular sateens and satins. 02
03 Development of Weaves from Elementary Bases 14
03.01 Plain weave derivatives: Warp rib weaves, Weft rib weaves, Hopsack, mat or basket weaves, Mock rib effects. 03
03.02 Weaves constructed on twill bases: Zig-zag twills, Herringbone twills, Broken twills, Elongated twills, Combined twills, and Fancy twills (large diagonals, shaded twills, diagonals on sateen bases, figured twills). 07
03.03 Angle of twills. 01
03.04 Weaves constructed on satin or sateen bases: Simple developments, Extension of sateen weaves. 03
04 Diamond and Diaper Designs 05
04.01 Construction of diamond designs. 02
04.02 Construction of diaper designs. 02
04.03 Elongated and Flattened diamonds and diapers. 01
05 Simple Fancy Weaves 14
05.01 Principles of designing honey comb weaves. 03
05.02 Types of Honey-Comb Weave: Ordinary and Brighton Honey Comb Weave.
05.03 Huckaback weaves. 02
05.04 Mock Leno weaves. Simple spot designs. 02
05.05 Crepe weaves. Moss crepes, Fancy rib and cord weaves. 01
05.06 Bedford cords: Wadded bedford cords. Crepon bedford cords, Bedford cords (arranged with alternate picks), Twill-faced bedford cords. 02
05.07 Welts and piques: Ordinary welt structures, Weft wadded wefts, Fast-back welts, Pique, pique weaves with wadded ends, Waved piques. 03
05.08 Stripe and check weave combinations. 01
06 Yarn Diameter and Cover Factor 05
06.01 Diameter of yarn and their calculations regarding their setting in fabric. 01
06.02 Brief idea of structure of a cover factor of simple fabrics. 02
06.03 Quality particulars of a different fabrics of the above weave. 02
07 Colour and its Applications 09
07.01 Light and colour phenomena: Physical basis of colour, Emission and absorption of light, Colour vision and light theory of colour, Primary, secondary and tertiary colours, Complementary colours, Chromatic circle, Colour measurement, Pigment theory of colour, Modification of colours. 03
07.02 Colours in combination: Colour contrast, Contrast of hue, Contrast of tone, Colour harmony. 01
07.03 Colour Mixing: The rainbow, additive colour mixing, subtractive colour mixing. 01
07.04 Colour specification and colour specifying systems:  
07.04.01 The Munsell system: Munsell value, Munsell hue, Munsell chroma, Munsell colour charts. 02
07.04.02 The CIE system.
07.05 Application of colour: Mixed colour effects, fibre mixture yarns, twist yarn mixtures, combinations of differently coloured threads, colour stripes and checks, simple regular patterns, simple irregular patterns, compound orders of colouring, etc. 02


 Recommended Books
SL Title/Publisher Author
1. Watson's Textile Design and Colour Z. Grosicki
2. Cloth Construction Robinson and Marks
3. Grammar of Textile Design Nisbet
4. Structure Fabric Design Klibbe
5. Textile Colour Mixing Paterson


 Scheme of Examination: Final Examination Marks = 80
Designed and Developed by NIC, Bihar State Centre, Patna.